Infinity Reference 1600a 600-Watt, High-Performance Mono Subwoofer Amplifier (Silver/Black)
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The Reference 1600a features a 12dB per octave electronic crossover, allowing you to optimize bass performance based on enclosure type and subwoofer selection. Full-range preamp outputs facil
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Most helpful customer reviews on Amazon.com
Black Sabbaths "Thunder Underground" is well balanced, and the vocals are clear above the bass. D-12s "Rap game" causes my little Jeep to feel like it twitches when the bass hits, actually to the point I can feel pressure on my skin when the sub kicks in (like being in a small room and closing the door quickly). On the other hand, Led Zeppelins "Kashmir" has a smooth and clear bass line with no overpowering rumble. Additionally, ELOs "In the Hall of the Mountain King" has a new diminsion, and my Nightwish collection is re-awakened.
The sound from this amp is very clean, but it lacks some features. I would appreciate a sub sonic filter, and maybe some actual marking for the gain voltage (I based the 3/4 = 4V on a Pioneer I have). Out side of that eveything works perfectly. Installation was easy with the CEA style terminals, and I appreciated the phillips adjustment instead of the allen. Like I said, the gain is very low (NOT bass obsessed) and it stays very cool. I have it hidden behind the trim in the back (huge amount of air space in there) and it makes a very stock looking sub woofer system.
The sub is crossed in the HU at 100Hz, with the 6.5" drivers crossed at 80hz. The transition is smooth, and virtually seamless. This sub sounds very clean with a set of Infinity Kappa series speakers.
This amp is a 4-channel class A amp. For the price it is incredible. I only have the infinity Kappa 6.5 inch door speakers. (later will add 6X9s to the picture :) ) this amp powers them nicely. The sound is incredibly clean and accurate. They get very, very loud and have this rich, powerful, sound, that just gets inside your bones and in the sheet metal of your truck, and makes you want more. The speakers are very clear but not harsh, even when it's cranked, meaning that it doesn't hurt your ears even at high volume.
I bought this amp in the summer of 2012 and didn't put it in till a month or two ago, just because I never have much time. It was still kind of cool outside and the amp lasted about 5 days before going into protect mode. One night I shut the truck off and the radio was fine, next morning as soon as the amp powered, it went into protect mode. It baffled me and I, being electronically minded, decided to check it out. I couldn't find anything on the Internet that actually resolved this issue although I spent a couple of weeks searching. Finally, I was fed up with having to listen to my infinity speakers on that low power Kenwood head unit and pulled the amp down. The first thing I checked was the power supply FETS. they were fine but there were certain components that just didn't read right according to my multi meter, but only when soldered into the board. I powered the amp up on the bench and found that four resistors (high current) were getting incredibly hot and upon flipping the board around to de-solder one and check it, I found the problem.
When these amps are made the ends from the components are chopped off. One of the ends that was supposed to be chopped off, was still halfway hanging onto one of those resistors. It was also touching another contact next to it that powered one of the amp transistors. (TIP-35C) it caused a series over-voltage to go into the signal processor. Upon removing this little piece of slag, I found a spot where it had been arching (yeah, that close) to that high-voltage rail. I then powered the amp up again and it played for about half a second before going into protect mode again. Doing some checking i found what actually made the amp go into protect mode. There is a little diode that is almost to where the signal possessor connects. This diode connects to one of the outputs off one side of the resistors and connects to another connection leading to the signal prossessor. There is also a thermistor and capacitor present. Basically the output of those large resistors should be 15 volts across. That diode was rated at 15 volts. When that little end was touching across to that other wire, that diode was getting almost 35 volts of power. The diode was dead shorted and was sending way to much power into a non-power leg that goes into the signal prossessor.
This amp has a good power supply, and was able to compensate for a while, but that poor little diode can only take so much over-voltaging. Basically when it blows, it creates mass confusion and overloads the signal prossessor. It can even back feed up to 11 volts of power into your car stereo receiver.
Overall I would have given it a 3-star rating if it hadn't been so well built and it's sound so clean.
Note: some people may be wandering: why is this guy talking about 15 and 35 volts of power when a car only has a 12 volt electrical system. Well here's why. In order to get that much power out of an amp the input voltage going to the power transistor (what actually amplifies the pre-amp ins) the voltage must be brought up to the 30-50 volt range. If it didn't do this you could only get about 20 watts of power at 4ohms. (I have seen some class D amps that have 65 volt power supplies) therefore a good power amp must have a power transformer that brings the voltage up to the nessesary voltage. Just as a final thought this is why head units only have about 15-25 watts RMS per channel.
1N-47-44A 15 volt 1watt diode
This part is available at Digi-key which is where I ordered it from.