- Hardcover: 424 pages
- Publisher: The Lyons Press (21 May 2013)
- Language: English
- ISBN-10: 0762791926
- ISBN-13: 978-0762791927
- Product Dimensions: 15.2 x 3.2 x 22.9 cm
- Average Customer Review: 2 customer reviews
- Amazon Bestsellers Rank: #8,01,394 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
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Everest - the First Ascent: How A Champion of Science Helped to Conquer the Mountain Hardcover – Import, 21 May 2013
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"In this illuminating and well-researched portrait of an eccentric, brilliant scientist, Tuckey demonstrates Pugh's important contributions to the British success on Everest, while also openly addressing his faults and her own troubled relationship with him" - Library Journal"Harriet Tuckey's gripping account finally establishes her father's role as the difference between triumph and failure, and the man himself as the real hero of the expedition."- The Daily Mail (UK)"Marvelously enjoyable and exciting...poignant." - The Times"Remarkable...complex and multi-dimension...intensely compelling." - High Altitude Medicine & Biology"Terrific, a priceless gift. Harriet Tuckey's journey to find her dad is a beautiful, no-holds-barred bit of writing that tells not only about physiologist Griffith Pugh but also a big hunk of Everest history that has somehow stayed discreetly under wraps for six decades. As the story of Pugh's seminal but under-recognized contribution to the success of Everest '53, it fills in a big blank on the map and is a window on the interpersonal dynamics and politics surrounding that first ascent." - Tom Hornbein, US Mountaineer, Emeritus professor of anesthesiology and physiology and author of Everest: The West Ridge"Shines an entirely new light on the great expedition - a riveting read, full of surprises" - Sir Chris Bonington"A most remarkable work about a perfectly extraordinary man. I much admire it." - Jan Morris"The most important addition to the story of Everest" - Doug Scott'Superb...this compulsively readable and data-rich book is a tribute to a very distinguished applied physiologist of extraordinary vision, ability, energy and tenacity" - Craig Sharp, Emeritus Professor of Sports Science, Centre for Sports Medicine and Human Performance, Brunel University"Moving...meticulously researched...New insights that will set many people thinking again of the great achievement...This book should help to set the record straight...Superb..." John West, Distinguished Professor of Medicine and Physiology, University of California, San Diego
About the Author
Harriet Tuckey is the daughter of Dr. Griffith Pugh. She has a first class honors degree in Literature and an MA in the sociology of literature (University of Essex). She has worked as a researcher for the Fabian Research Institute and worked on the first national surveys commissioned by the British Government into race relations and unemployment. She joined the Civil Service in 1976 but left three years later when the first of her children was born. When all three of her daughters were at university she joined them, reading for a postgraduate diploma in the History of Art at the Courtauld Institute, London specializing in Gothic Architecture and Northern Renaissance painting. She began work on this biography in 2004. It has already been awarded a prize by the Biographer's Club (judged by Margaret Drabble, John Guy and Anne de Courcy).
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Top customer reviews
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Have picked it up few times, read a chapter or so the put back..
I really want to complete this book it has so much to tell... Interesting but non-gripping read..
Most helpful customer reviews on Amazon.com
I am grateful to Harriet Tuckey, his daughter, for describing the true roll of Griffith Pugh who set the basis for modern high altitude climbing.
However, the Kindle version is missing the figures. While they are by no means essential, they are of historic interest, as is the book, and so it is a bit disappointing to not include them. Hence 4 stars, even though this is one of the more fascinating books I've read in a while.
This book, written by Dr. Pugh's daughter, is amazingly even-handed. I learned a lot from this book and only graded it down because I felt it went on at too great length regarding Dr. Pugh's later years. I'm more of a literary type, but felt the science and sociology were excellently presented and well worth the read.
I learned a lot about early Himilayan climbing expeditions and the effects of extreme cold, lack of oxygen, poor planning and the politics within the climbing community at the time. It was interesting to read about the research that went into making athletic performance in high altitudes safer and how training for events has changed over the years because of Pugh's persistence and scientific research.
No, it was the secondary title that caught my eye, HOW A CHAMPION OF SCIENCE HELPED TO CONQUER THE MOUNTAIN.
The champion was Griffith Pugh.
On page 1, we are introduced to Dr Griffith Pugh, found sitting chalk-white and cold, immersed in a tub of icewater, experimenting upon himself. He studied nearly everything else regarding athletes and mountaineers in myriad environmental conditions.
The honorary Sir titles of John Hunt and Edmund Hillary were not earned by their treatment of Pugh before, during, and after the 1953 Everest ascent, but scientific readers are familiar with Pugh from his 1960-1961 Silver Hut expedition studying high altitude deterioration. Utilizing not just his voluminous 1940-1986 scientific papers, many of which are archived at The University of California-San Diego, but also newly discovered personal documents saved from the attic of a house under renovation, Harriet Tuckey's book tells the rest of the story very well. It is an outstanding book.